Borneo

Lesson 3

Batang Ai.

After returning from Bako and another night at Basaga we ready ourselves as the hardest is yet to come, our week stint in the rainforests of Borneo, our time here is to track the orangutans in the wild, their natural environment. Whilst others took their rehydration salts and stocked up on more 100 Deet Mosquito repellant I bought a camouflage bandanna to make sure I look the part, in an attempt to connect with my inner jungle jane ready to go commando. 

It was in Batang Ai to be precise where we familiarised ourselves with the native community and their way of life, the Iban tribe were our hosts and showed us what it meant to live in harmony with the rainforest around them along with a high respect for the environment and the orang-utans they share their home with. After more time on the road and a memorable 1.5 hour long-boat journey up river into the depths of the Batang Ai rainforest we made it to our lodge, and it was VERY basic to say the least, I was definitely out of my comfort zone but they say its all about location location location, The freshwater river runs steps from our doors, and a wall of the rainforest canopy opposite us as our view.

At night I've never experienced such darkness, the only thing lighting up our sky are the sparse low lighting bulbs which merely dot the longhouse, instead as it should the night sky is clear and the stars so bright they do shine like diamonds taking their place as the jewels of the night amongst the darkness of night that blankets us. The generator and electricity run from 6PM - 12AM and once the lights are off you cannot see your own hand in front of your face. It's a fun sensation, although surreal beginning to believe you're blind.

The days are filled with hours of trekking the jungle clad mountainsides of Batang Ai to see the orangutans, We conquer trek after trek, in our attempts to see these fellas in the wild, their natural environment. Thankfully the rainforest canopy shades us for the most part, never the less sweat runs like a river off our foreheads and backs as the humidity gets the best of us. The ever entertaining Maddy brings her phone along on one the the trips in attempts to get a signal at the top of the mountain, and lucky her she did and took advantage of the moment.

 The rainforests are mystical places full of amazing tree root formations, branches and vines swinging down from the leafy canopy above, with a certain energy surrounding you it feels mother nature watching you with each step you take, The Iban have their own superstitions about it giving the orangutans a disguised name, they refers to them as Hairys to ensure the rainforest is unaware of their attempts to track them, one of those the universe is an entity all knowing and can change your luck or fate type things. After each trek we found ourselves in the river cooling off in its refreshing waters and at one point deciding floating down river back to the lodge no boats required to forego an additional walk back.

Nights were filled with discussions of how our presence was making a difference, 'We can continue being natives' as Alvin put it, able to lead the lives they wish continue with their heritage and culture. The corrupt government want to buy up the land they call home and use it for palm oil plantations and use the wood from trees in multinational business. If the Iban tribes gave in it would result in their dislocation, a break in their cultural ways and lifestyles where their children would not be able to return and the rainforest unable to grow back. And a beautiful people they are, the food they cooked got better with each meal with oodles of noodles and succulent fruits, Alvin's wife Christina delighted us with her skill to cook for 15 people out of a miniature kitchen, two potted stove top and continual attacks on the kitchen by fire ants.

They took us in and showed us what it meant to live as an Iban tribe member, including time with their families and learning new skills such as weaving and walking along long boats without falling into rivers. On our last night they invited us into their homes where they shared bottles of homemade rice wine and rice whiskey (a good old favourite), they shared with us drinking games and we shared our games not necessarily for drinking .. just better when drunk, where we burst out in song many times and said our thank you's. 

As we leave Batang Ai we have one last pitstop before our final night back at Basaga, Semmongoh. 

Alvin warns us of Semmongoh and that it has outgrown its primary purpose as an orang-utan sanctuary, as the path to hell is paved with good intentions as they do say. A 300 hectare site on the border of Kuching city, initially was a place to fight the orangutan cause yet the problem now worsens with 28 orangutans sharing a limited space, and a second generation of inbreeding the orangutans are getting frustrated with their living situation. Alvin hopes a new government can be sympathetic to their needs and move Semmongoh to Batang Ai Rainforest where their numbers can flourish under natural circumstances with millions of hectares of natural rainforest to live in.

Never the less a beautiful place and better than nothing for these orangutans, we can see the keepers here do care about what they do but without support there is only so much they can do with what they have. 

The group finds relief as we slowly sink back into civilisation and find ourselves inching closer and closer to home. Batang was not what we expected but refreshed our awareness of the problem at hand. We leave with what we have seen and learnt at the fore front of our minds and hopefully form our own homes continue to find a way to fight the cause.

A land where the rainforest runs wild and reaches the beaches, where waterfalls are abundant, food influenced from all asian tastes in one kitchen. 

Thankfully I did not get malaria or typhoid, I was bitten by a leech only once and didn't even know until i found him in my shoe, bitten by mosquitoes, but just as much as if I were at home in Australia. Only one giant snake was met on the way to the bathroom, A tyre only popped once on our bus, making quite the smooth jungle trek trip if I do say so myself.

Borneo

Lesson 2. 

Bako National Park. 

And then we met Alvin, our accompanying guide for the rest of our trip. More like drill sergeant, A khaki favouring man we were warned of his lack of typical Malaysian characteristics instead punctual, efficient and blunt, and probably exactly what we needed. We first met on the bus to Bako, which was very intense as he sussed out the group and brought out the reality of what we were in for without hesitation, His safety announcement went something along the lines of 'do not to complain to me and be prepared to die in various ways, look alive and watch your step - I don't want to have to pull your carcass out of the jungle'.

Although Alvin became one of my favourite characters on the trip. Quick witted, the tough skinned teddy bear fatherly type. He even played along with the groups drunken game of chinese whispers one night, and yes the group played silent whispers. 

Taking boats to the national park, skimming the water in the sunlight as the coastal landscape passed us by, the water splashing alongside the rhythms of the boat as it swayed from side to side, sometimes requiring us to hang on for dear life. Our view changed from one jetty to lush tree covered mountains, to mangroves and water trees sticking out of the sandbeds to marble sandstone cliffs to another beach front jetty.

The animals walk alongside us here at Bako, wildboars pottering along the beach, long-tailed macaques, proboscis monkeys and silver languors frequently looking on at what the humans are up to.

And here I mention how I got rolled by a gang of monkeys. At the time enjoying an ice cream in one hand, a can of coke at my feet, they gathered closer and in no time one swooped in and stole my ice cream right out of my hand, whilst distracted at the display another went for my coke. Those devilish macaques got the better of me that time, but only the once thank fully. A good couple of Ringgits worth of a funny story to be told. 

A flying lemur was spotted one morning, with the hopes it would leap/fly that night, the guides told us it would probably be at sunset, later that day we gathered underneath the tree awaiting this majestic move from tree to tree, this wait was long - hours long, looking upwards into the trees my neck began to ache, not looking back down at the fear I would miss the moment, and in a pickle some of us found ourselves, you get to a point where you've been waiting so long you're not entirely sure if sticking it out or leaving is the better option? In the end some of us may have given up and headed for dinner instead? Thankfully the others stayed getting video footage and photos, its as though we were there the entire time.

At Bako Alvin shared the things to be learnt from the fauna surviving on the completely sandstone island, with no real nutrients they have created a sustainable ecosystem adaptable to the islands circumstances, where trees are growing within salt and rock. Sustainability is the capacity to endure, here we saw the plants and trees feed of each other in coexistence, to sustain one another. Alike to our larger ecosystems, humans rely on the proper working of these environmental structures for our own survival and continued long-term maintenance of well being.

Along the beach we would see the odd piece of rubbish be swept up onto the shore by the sea, it was a reminder of how our actions elsewhere in the world still has a mighty affect on someone somewhere, it might not be your home but it someone else's and in the end it is all our home, our fates are linked and our homes all the same. 

Sitting in the beach hut writing, reading and taking it all in with some time to spare. Watching the waves of south china sea lap onto the beach in front of me the branches of the trees framing my view, the breeze sweeps through and matt corby playing the background it is all quite peaceful, enjoying the slower moments of life, until one of the pesky macaques strolls past and I grab onto my monkey deterring stick for protection.

Borneo.

Lesson 1.

I took a trip to Sarawak located in Malaysian Borneo to take part in a volunteer program through an organisation called The Great Projects, an eco tourism travel company aimed at providing volunteering trips to raise awareness of the conservation efforts for animals, wildlife and nature across the globe.

Here in Borneo, An island in the south east asian pacific region of our world, it is one of the only places the orangutan call home and may I admit the sole reason for me travelling to Borneo with a growing obsession towards orangutans, this trip was the chance to see these hairy guys in action, the chance to learn and give back. 

Leaving Sydney international once again, after 5 minutes of strolling through duty free I had already spent my alcohol limit. This time around selecting a bottle of Wild Turkey American Honey, and some good old Jose Cuervo Tequila. As usual pulled aside for a 'random' drug test, yet for me is quite routine, when travelling even domestically someone for my party will always be pulled aside and this time it was me seeing as I was alone. 

3 movies, two and a half meals filling my stomach, 1 stopover and 9 hours of flight time later I was at Kuching airport. One of the first to arrive alongside the beautiful Sarah, we were taken to our first hotel, meeting point for the group and starting point for our journey. We were not expecting such luxury at any point of the trip yet at Basaga Hotel we were spoilt, where the rooms were poolside, the drinks flowed, towels were clean, showers were warm and wifi was abundant, deceiving us seeing as what was to come, that for the rest of the trip we referred to Basaga as paradise. Being quite early and with nothing else to do Sarah and I took the day to enjoy our relaxing surrounds and wait for the rest of our group members to flock in. By dinner we had all arrived and been accounted for, 13 Brits, 2 Germans and 1 Australian (me) and what a family we made for ourselves.

At dinner we meet the Leo and Tash keepers for Matang Wildlife Centre, where they told us their stories and how they found themselves in Borneo, Leo alone has been working for wildlife conservation for 18 years throughout the Congo and Sierra Leone, fought some tough battles he's been shot at and lost a few good men along the way. Originally from england the man knows his stuff and enlightened us on the underbelly of wildlife conservation and why its a loosing battle. He also told us of the fellow keepers at the Matang wildlife centre, how they volunteer their time and do not take a wage for their work with the centre.

Day 1

and time came to start our work at Matang and our first day of animal life. 

After hustling down for breakfast we jumped in the vans for a 40 minute ride out of Kuching, down a few stretches of highways to the gates of the park, with its towering red steel gates that reminded me of jumanji. We were introduced to our first taste of longhouse style living, traditional of the Malay people. 

With the chance to explore the surrounds of the centre and all the animals, it was hard to dismiss how much of a role humans play in dislocating animals from their natural environments and how the dominance of humans over other living things is creating an imbalance. Everyday sees more animals taken in at Matang as they get caught up in the lives of humans, for most sadly in the pet trade, for others their natural habitats overtaken by man for a few they're farmed and taken advantage of for their skins or 'medical' cures - a sunbears gallbladder apparently is the cure for cancer ...? As much as Matang wishes it could do more they are caught up in the red tape and bureaucratic mess of a power struggle the government holds over them and with only so many resources at their disposal, with things such as steel costing quite the pretty penny in Borneo at far a higher cost than in our western homes. 

But may I delight you, good memories were to be had, the highlight being the chance to see the orangutans playing amongst themselves, where I could have sat there and watched the animals for hours on end, you truly begin to appreciate them not only as animals but living entities we share the earth with. Watching the orangutans play and move reminds you of how alike to humans they are and the moment you see somewhat of a smile crawl across their face as they recognise you, they see you. Here the animals have a chance to live out more natural lives without fear and the presence of humans are here to help them achieve that. Seeing the little guys learning the ropes of the rainforest pulls at your heartstrings, although for me nothing takes the cake quite like the big fellas, flat faced and powerful, with an inescapable energy. You can't help but be drawn in. 

Our first chance to work with the animals was with Leo and the sunbears named so for their umber colored V tattoo within their fur rimming their necks. These guys were so playful and friendly, they prod along in their search for food and entertainment. Our days were spent cleaning out the enclosures, hiding food for them to find, working on their enclosures, making enrichment tools to keep them stimulated all the while learning about them and their story. 

One night we walked around the park on the lookout for nocturnal animal activity, I was at the back end of the group having the time of my life with Jo and Charlotte, scaring each other out turning around to dark night blanketed rickety paths and the feeling something was behind you. 

The following night saw bursts of rain bucket down as tropical Asia endures, dry one second soaking wet the next, with some of the girls challenging each other to see who could get out the furthest in the rain before coming back.